Tips and Tricks for making the Helmets

[AntoineS]

SICK!

[ThreeFN]

Curious, how much do you expect this helmet to weigh?

Too much. I haven't weight it at all actually, I only have person sized scales and they're not that accurate. Although, I imagine it won't weight any more than a crash helmet. If you actually feel a crash helmet, they're bloody heavy when not on your head. When it's more at a stage of completion remind me to weigh it

Hi guys,

I'm not asking much because I want to try many things alone, but now I have a question.
I must now make the visor on my helmet guy manuel de homem christo.
which thick, must have the glass?

I want to mold it with Vacuum.

You'll want to use PET-G plastic (PET in countries other than the US). Thickness will depend on your vacuum forming capabilities and skill. 1/32" is pretty thin, and might not be to rigid, but is easy to form. 1/16" is probably a nice middle ground. 1/8" is VERY difficult except for the most skilled of formers, ie professionals, but will be extremely robust.

SICK!

Cheers.

[Alexiares]

How do you plan on powering the helmet? Backpack like dp's?

[DarkBlueStar]

*drools* wish I had a mold like that for my LEDs... Any plans on making more?

[ThreeFN]

How do you plan on powering the helmet? Backpack like dp's?

Laptop batteries. Relatively small and unobtrusive, and full of state of chaarge data pron if you figure out how to talk to them. I should be able to wear it close to my body in my sort of 'wiring harness vest' that will house the electronics that don't go into the helmet itself.

*drools* wish I had a mold like that for my LEDs... Any plans on making more?

Nope. These were 3D printed for me by my new best friend. Only two helmets of this type will ever be made, his and mine. The only exception will be if DP themselves ask.

[AntoineS]

This is just an idea, but, I would love to see someone attemps a Guy and Thomas helmet COMPLETED as TRANSPARENT SHELL.... so we can see all the wirings and chips and widgets and what nots involved.

I challenge you to make one, that esthetically works, I bet it will look crazy awesome.

Of course when someone wears it, there should be a way that you do not see their face, so maybe an inner casing that is black? I dunno!

[ThreeFN]

This is just an idea, but, I would love to see someone attemps a Guy and Thomas helmet COMPLETED as TRANSPARENT SHELL.... so we can see all the wirings and chips and widgets and what nots involved.

I challenge you to make one, that esthetically works, I bet it will look crazy awesome.

Of course when someone wears it, there should be a way that you do not see their face, so maybe an inner casing that is black? I dunno!

The closest I could get would be to use 'water clear' 3D printed SLA, but that wouldn't be the same as say vac-formed plastic is terms of optical quality. Looking through it, you would have a rough idea of color and shape, but it wouldn't be like looking at something encased in Lucite. I'd be like a foggy mirror at best.

If you can cast something you can use clearer plastics with better results. But my sub visor is extremely too complicated to accomplish that.

[bluebomber]

I'm going to be working on some ear pieces this weekend, and I am wondering what the best way to achieve the bevel is. The material is MDF. Any tips?

[ThreeFN]

I'm going to be working on some ear pieces this weekend, and I am wondering what the best way to achieve the bevel is. The material is MDF. Any tips?

Go slow and use a variety of grits in increments.

[MrPinski]

Maybe this will be useful for some people... I posted it on my thread, but more people look here so...

This is for my Thomas casting, but it can apply to others as well...

This is what shows up to your door.


The first thing that you want to do is trim away all the excess resin from the bottom of the casting and cut out the ear plates and the visor area.

The best way to cut out the visor area is to cut it out while leaving about a 1/4" lip all the way around the visor area. The rest should be sanded down flat with a sanding drum attachment on your dremel.

After you have this done, you will have to create a bevel on the inside of the cut out area using the inside edge of the sanding drum. This is where the visor will ultimately rest.

Once done, it should look like this.


once you have the visor area cut out, you can use the same sanding drum and sand down the area behind the nostrils and mouth opening.